On the classification of Fuding white teas and some observations on their unique taste profiles.
Teas to go by the very noble accolade of “white tea” can be found elsewhere in China also, but it seems to be that many of the really noteworthy ones come from Fuding, north of Fujian province. As an area it is not as large as Wuyi Mountains, and is somewhat struggling with meeting the current demand due to the interest in white tea in the past few years. What will happen with the inflation of prices since 2016, one holds one’s breath to see. Since some of the white teas are among the first teas to be picked in the spring and the leaves are to be left to wither and dry for up to 72 hours in the sun, it is a real gamble with the weather each year to be able to produce a sterling product.
Here in this post I would like to open up a little the classifications of the Fuding white teas. Happily, white tea is one of the more clear cut tea types to classify. The rest of Chinese teas really are a somewhat soggy marsh to define – answers vary by whom is anwering, and even books on the subject are often slightly contradictory, but there are a few good general rules to go by. Let’s just put it this way: the methodology used is slightly different to what the West is used to.
Nonetheless, I hereby present to you the whites in order:
- Silver Needle white tea
- White Peony white tea
- Gongmei white tea
- Shoumei white tea
Silver Needle White Tea
The best of the best: 白毫银针 Báiháo Yínzhēn, aka Silver needle white tea
This cream of the crop looks exactly as it is called; silvery-white hairy needles. Think of the leaves of the weeping willow but in the form of pine needles. That image is about right: pine needles with weeping willow down.
It is the first tea to be harvested in the spring – the harvest taking place end of March slightly tipping into April, but must be completed before April the 5th – , and only the very tip or bud of the plant is accepted in this category. The leaves are to be no more than 2,5-3cm in length and each sprig can only have two leaves on it, with the heart of the budding inside still coiled in the bosom of one of the leaves.
Fuding Silver white needle tea fetches a high price any given day, and is highly valued for its subtle notes of unique freshness. I have had the pleasure of coming accross beautiful, lingering sap-like whispers in some Baihaoyinzhen; at its best it can taste like walking through an envigorating, budding forest in keen expectation of the full grace of summer… Extremely tender flavours in essence.
Whereas it can be pressed into a tea cake, this is not always the case. It is usually kept in loose-leaf form, but then extra care is needed in storing it properly. Silver needle is a fussy master: it does unfortunately lose some of its charm rather easily with time, or due to wrong type of storage, and should really be enjoyed any time within 4-6 years of harvesting (this timeframe is my personal opinion).
Locals tend not to drink Silver needle white tea the same year it was harvested, but prefer to wait at least a year. The reason stated is the rather baffling Chinese medical term “寒” – the tea is simply too “han” -meaning in the more mysterious than mystery separation of food items into warm and cold by the chinese medicinal doctrine- white tea of the same year lands in the “too cool to consume” category. Go figure. Thus, the tea growers and dealers alike will all taste the produce of each year, but the tea doesn’t become an item of consumption until the next year. Even then: locals tend two skip the second year as well, claiming something being lost then that comes back in the third year. Whatever the excuse and how scientific it is or isn’t – three years is a good amount of time to hold on to your tea, if not even longer.
Another personal observation is this: when making Silver needle – let your water cool a bit more than usual. You will lose nothing by way of flavour, on the contrary. The tea has a very pale, light colour if any. It almost looks like plain water, unless you keep the leaves brewing for a considerable time, but even then it should only turn a pale yellow. As for the time for steeping this Queen of Whites, I have seen some pretty heart breakingly long suggestions been made by many sources… Obviously, it all depends on what kind of water you are working with and the temperature, but if you are using a gaiwan or a small chinese style pot and your Silver needle is not particularly old, there is no need to brew your tea to blitz. If you are a fan of those tender, more ethereal notes, in the teas taste profile, maybe start with steeping it somewhere under half a minute and work your way up from there if it doesn’t give you the desired results. Best test a few different steeping times and temperatures, and see what brings out the best flavour – as with any tea. And obviously, the steeping time should become longer with each consecutive brew.
White Peony White Tea
Next in line: 白牡丹 Báimǔdān, White peony
Baimudan includes a harvest that has already a slighly larger portion of the sprig included,the first leaf usually without the bud. One can see bigger leaves and a whole lot more greens and maybe some browner tints mixed in the actual product. One cannot be too rigid about these things though. I have personally drank a plethora of Baimudans that were so heavily ladened with Silver needle white tea buds that the overall colour scheme was rich with the silvery presence of this priced produce, bringing with it complexity that is very much desired. The harvesting of the White Peony can take place a few days later than its more prized counterpart, giving the leaves just a tad more time to absorb some flavour, but it is among the first to be harvested also, since you don’t want those tender leaves to become too big either.
Baimudan can be pressed into cake form, and keeps better than its silvery counterpart Baihaoyinzhen. Time also treats White peony – when stored properly – with more grace than Silver needle white tea. And once again one comes across the same curious rule, locals tend to steer away from drinking it on the same year of harvest. This applies to all categories alike. Some tea gardens don’t even sell the vintage in question until at least 6-8 months have passed. So unless one is well connected directly with the source, it is not as easy as one might assume to get to taste the fresh harvest.
Also, another personal note and testified by many sources, Baimudan enjoys slightly cooler water when prepared. Once your kettle is off the boil let it sit for a bit, or even open the lid. The tea takes on a light yellowish green colour to a rich autumn yellow tint. Again if you are in possession of a gaiwan or a small Chinese teapot, I would start my brewing experiments from about half a minute or so, and extend the time from there on with the White Peony.
Gongmei White Tea
贡眉 Gòngméi, literally Paying Tribute Eyebrow
The ready product is in appearance already far more darker, with some green in it, but definately heavier toward the browns. This includes an even larger portion of the seasonal growth, mainly what is known as the second leaves, and has some of the stalk of the leaves mixed in with the blend. It can be purchased loose or pressed into a cake. Keeps well under the right conditions. More earthy notes in flavour. I have also had some with more citrusy and sap-like notes.
Also harvested in the spring, but the time frame not so rigid.
Your final brew should have an amber yellow colour which varies in density. Can be prepared by simmering the tea for a while. Gongmei doesn’t really require a cooler water to be steeped to perfection. Recommended by the locals to be enjoyed in the winter. As for the length of time… whatever suites your taste really. But having said that, it does require a bit longer to steep then the other two, so you could start your search for the optimum at less than a minute.
Shoumei White Tea
寿眉 Shòuméi, literally Longevity Eyebrow
Shoumei has way more leaves in comparison with its other family members as it is made from the third leaves of the new growth. One should be able to see more and more browns and leaf stalks in the mix of the final product. Keeps extremely well: under the right conditions even decades. It is usually pressed into cakes.
Shoumei works well even when simmered. It has enough strong flavour to it and with being simmered for even quite some time, has some unusual surprises up its sleeve. I could definately recommend it for one of those frosty, autumn mornings when one has a bit more time on one’s hands to let the flavour infuse a few extra minutes in higher temperatures and at the same time let the whole house be invaded by this cosy smell. Can be wonderfully varied by way of flavour. Once again, locals recommend to drink Shoumei in the winter. The brew – depending on your choice of method how to prepare the tea- should range from any density of an autumnal yellow to even quite an intense red in colour. If you are sporting the gaiwan or a small pot to brew Shoumei, I would definitely start from less than a minute if not even just over a minute.
People have started to hog cakes of Shoumei as an investment since the prices have been going up. Sad state of affairs… so much splendid tea, just left to grow in value. Only consolation being; at the same time it grows in flavour. Viva la Justice!
May you find your favourite!